Tuesday, December 27, 2011

Dinners with Dad

One of my favorite traditions at JBFC is “dinner with Dad.” Every week, Chris invites a group of four to five girls up to his house for dinner. There’s a rotation posted in the dining hall, but no one looks at it because they all have it memorized. Dinner with Dad is a BIG deal.

When it was Salome’s turn, she was ready at 2 pm. We tried to explain the groceries for the evening’s meal hadn’t even arrived from town yet…but she was undeterred. “Ok, I will go wash my body,” was her response. Sure enough, thirty minutes later a freshly-showered Salome returned, ready to help cook dinner. So, she just hung out with us until the ingredients for pizza arrived.

We try to expose the girls to different types of cuisine when they “eat up” at Dad’s house. There’s been pizza…chicken and mashed potatoes…fajitas…and falafel night with hummus and pita chips. I was most excited about this last meal, but it was clear by the silence and “I’m trying not to gag” faces around the table that the girls were not as pleased by the evening’s menu. We’ll try again another time…

One of the recent meals was for our “little girls” in the group: Dotto, Bhoke, Rachel, and Yonga (left to right). And yes, I think that IS lipstick Bhoke is wearing.

As you can see, the girls were dressed in their favorite outfits and ready for a big night. It was one of the most fun evenings I’ve spent in Kitongo…there were tickle fights, hide-and-seek, and our favorite activity of all…dancing to Shakira! If only she knew how many loyal fans she has in rural East Africa

Now that I’ve moved into the “Rock House” and have my own kitchen, there has been some campaigning for “Dinner with Julia” as well. I’m not sure I can compete with falafel night, but I’m thinking I can carve out my own niche with “DESSERTS with Julia.”

Stay tuned...

Monday, December 26, 2011

Heri ya Krismas!

Christmas By the Numbers:

One Mango Christmas Tree Branch.

Forty-seven stockings.

Three days of cooking.

Seven kilos of carrots, eight loaves of bread, seventy rolls, and ten pans of cornbread.

Thirteen sous-chefs.

Five girls to carry one (of two) pots of mashed potatoes.

Twenty chickens—blessedly pre-butchered for us.

Two ovens.

Fifty-nine satisfied diners.


All in all, it was a wonderful day. The girls looked beautiful and were beaming the whole evening. For some, it is their first Christmas at JBFC, an extra reason for us to celebrate.

There were squeals of joy and little dances of delight as they opened their stockings to discover stickers, bouncy-balls, mini coloring books, pencils, and “pee-pee!” (This means “candy” in Swahili).

A fun surprise…everyone sings when they open gifts! We enjoyed lots of singing as a bounty of gifts were unwrapped from friends in the US.

The girls loved the photo boards I made for each dorm, where they can display pictures of our special memories together.

After a delicious meal and opening presents, the girls gave an impromptu concert for us. Words simply can’t capture the joy one feels in watching these girls sing and dance…it was the best gift I could hope for in my first African Christmas.

Wishing you all “Heri ya Krismas” from Tanzania!













Thursday, December 22, 2011

Julia's Saloon

I will always love Pendo for trusting me enough to do her hair.

Bucket list item number nine: learn to plait the girls’ hair.

As of two days ago, we can check this one off!

With 40 girls each needing their hair done every 5-7 days, I’ve had lots of opportunity to watch and observe various braiding techniques before trying it myself.

There was a complex logarithm for choosing my first hair “victim.” Pendo happened to be looking for a hairstylist when I was walking by with no pressing tasks, has hair long enough I felt semi-confident trying, and is young enough to foolishly accept my offer. Bingo.

Welcome to Julia’s Saloon. (Not a typo. In Tanzania, they’re called “saloons” not “salons.”)

Over the next two hours in two different locations (we needed a stretching break and I needed to keep an eye on dinner), I laboriously accomplished my mission. Of course, I had no fewer than seven on-lookers at any one time, most incredulous…then bemused…then halfway impressed at my braiding technique. (Thank you, years of marching band requiring French braids!)

Pendo looked beautiful when it was all done…

...so why has she been wearing a beanie for the last two days?

Tuesday, December 20, 2011

Farmer Julia and Fertilizer...

This beach bum turned African princess will soon be known as “Farmer Julia.”

I think Cal Poly would be proud to see me now!

This week, I learned to hoe. It’s planting season here in Kitongo!

School has been out since the beginning of December, giving us time to work on lots of projects around campus. A few days ago, I tilled two loooooooooong rows in one of our plots on campus. The girls followed behind, planting beans and sorghum in my wake. Not only is this a great way for the girls (and Julia) to learn new skills, but it will also cut down on JBFC’s food costs tremendously, helping us achieve our goal of financial sustainability. Plus, we get to be outside and sing. Awesome.

The most labor-intensive part of our planting work was moving fertilizer from our livestock pens to the fields. Of course, the girls have that figured out…

We transported fertilizer in old paint buckets…

…on a bicycle…

…and in a rickety wheelbarrow.

No one is too young to help, not even Yonga, age four…

We’re starting a garden competition soon, with Jackie as our judge. The dynamic duo, Kayci and Julia, will be competing against eleven other teams of two to see whose plot of land will be farmed the best. I’m thinking our toughest competitors will be Danny/Jackie and Chris/Mzee Kitula. It will take intense dedication, a few blisters, and a bedazzled pair of overalls to triumph over their intimidating combination of actual skill and farming knowledge.

But who knows, maybe I’m the farming equivalent of a pool shark. I guess they’ll find out, eh?

Tuesday, December 13, 2011

You know you live in Africa when...Part 1

...you overhear Chris say, "yeah, that room has never really smelled the same since the monkey lived here."

AND YOU KNOW HE'S NOT KIDDING.

For the record, I'm extremely jealous that I missed out on living with a monkey. Hello, my childhood dream coming true!


There's talk of getting a "bush baby" as a new pet. I'll keep you posted...

Monday, December 12, 2011

Christmas at Tunza

Yesterday was a great day. Sure, I was kicked in the face and the stomach, swallowed about a liter of Lake Victoria, went temporarily deaf from a series of shrill screams centimeters from my ear, and left with a serious backache and a bit of a sunburn, but the point is…

THE GIRLS HAD A BLAST.

I’m pretty sure it’s impossible to say the word “Tunza” around our girls without everyone erupting in some kind of dancing/screaming/jumping/giggle-fest. When Hannelie and Jan invited us back for a second beach day, they were more than excited. So excited, in fact, that yesterday they woke up at 4 am to get ready for their day of fun.

On this visit to Tunza Lodge, we had a very special assignment: decorating the restaurant for Christmas. We came armed with snowflakes, glittery sticker letters, popcorn garlands, pictures, ribbon, signs, and more...just no tape to hang it up with. Luckily, Hannelie came to the rescue!

Here are Neema and Pendo modeling some of our décor…

Julie’s art helped us leave the JBFC mark at Tunza:

Chris and Zach helped us achieve our vision with some non-traditional decorating approaches:

After decorations, the girls enjoyed a delicious breakfast of chai and chapatti. And then it was off to the beach!

Once again, the slip-n-slide was a main attraction. Here are Uncle Jan and Veneranda showing us how it’s done:

Hannelie and her mom went above and beyond to make this a special day for the girls.

They provided us with a two delicious meals, and Hannelie’s mom even baked cakes for us. (I might have had two slices…it was really, really good.)

There was so much good food, Salome just didn’t know where to start. She followed Dad's advice: cake first!

On top of everything else, all the girls received presents like Yuge and Zai are holding here:

We spent as much time in the water as possible. There were impromptu swim lessons, chicken fights, handstand contests, dives and jumps off the dock, and overall mayhem. There were at least two girls hanging from my arms at all times, and at least another ten calling for my attention at any moment. I wish I had a waterproof camera to capture the beaming smiles (and occasional looks of terror when jumping from the dock) that were on the girls’ faces for the entire afternoon.

Somehow, getting our 40 little water babies to change from wet to dry clothes was far less traumatic than last time. Our little water babies are growing up!

We are so thankful to Tunza for another wonderful day. I know the girls will be talking about it for a loooooooong time.

If you live near Mwanza, go to Tunza Lodge and check out the girls' decorations!

Friday, December 9, 2011

Siku ya Uruhu – Miaka Hamsini

Siku ya Uruhu – Miaka Hamsini

December 9, 2011 marks a very special day here – the 50th anniversary of Tanzania’s independence!

JBFC celebrated this holiday with my two favorite things—good food and dancing! With an American spin on a Tanzanian celebration, we had a good ol’ fashioned cookout with hot dogs and Wonderbread-esque bread slices for buns. Mama Maggie spent the whole day frying up “chips,” which everyone enjoyed tremendously. We went through two bottles of ketchup…a true sign of a good night.

After enjoying our feast on the patio at Dad’s house, we moved the festivities to the dining hall. The “choir,” meaning ALL our girls, performed several songs with accompaning dances. After studying their moves, I may have joined in for the last one…a song about peace.

In honor of today’s celebration, here are the lyrics (and translation) to Tanzania’s National Anthem. We are all very happy to live in a nation of peace.

Mungu ibariki Afrika
Wabariki Viongozi wake
Hekima Umoja na Amani
Hizi ni ngao zetu
Afrika na watu wake.

Ibariki Afrika
Ibariki Afrika
Tubariki watoto wa Afrika.

Mungu ibariki Tanzania
Dumisha uhuru na Umoja
Wake kwa Waume na Watoto
Mungu Ibariki,
Tanzania na watu wake.

Ibariki Tanzania
Ibariki Tanzania
Tubariki watoto wa Tanzania.

English Translation

God Bless Africa.
Bless its leaders.
Let Wisdom Unity and
Peace be the shield of
Africa and its people.

Bless Africa,
Bless Africa,
Bless the children of Africa.

God Bless Tanzania.
Grant eternal Freedom and Unity
To its sons and daughters.
God Bless Tanzania and its People.

Bless Tanzania,
Bless Tanzania,
Bless the children of Tanzania.

Monday, December 5, 2011

This is How We Do It: Transportation

I’ve been spending a lot of time in the car recently. And when I say car, I mean a seventeen passenger van we call “Logos” for obvious reasons:

During the school year, Logos serves as one of our two school buses, usually transporting close to forty students on the “Magu Route.” I once had the privilege of riding on this early morning drive through back roads—or over grass where there is no road at all—to pick up students from their homes in Magu, a city about 40 minutes east of Kitongo. Kanaeli, our driver, cruises through the neighborhoods, stopping at various homes and honking loudly. Soon, one or more children come bursting through the front door and run into the van, sometimes holding their shoes or a chapatti (flat pancake, delicious) for breakfast.

Logos is also our vehicle of choice when it comes to trips into town. It’s a great size because it doesn’t use as much fuel as say, our school bus named “Coaster.” At the same time, it can accommodate a number of employees who need to do various errands.

For example, we used Logos to take Shannon to the airport last month when she was leaving to go back home. Stephanie, Shannon and I planned to go in Logos for a relaxing lunch, pick up a couple items at the market, and then drop Shannon off at the airport with plenty of time to spare.

When we went out that morning to take off in Logos, we discovered there were several other people who planned to go into town:

Magibe, our farm manager, wanted to purchase supplies for the chicken coop. Two of our Masai, Jackson and Samweli, took advantage of a free ride to visit with relatives for the afternoon. We dropped Musa off in Nyanguge to pick up a part for our generator. Rachel was coming to buy vegetables for the girls’ dinner that evening. Mama Tulieta needed to take Veneranda to the hospital for a check-up.

Before we knew it, our “girls day out” became a Super Shuttle and exercise in time management, as Logos needs to be back at 3:30 to take students home after school. Poor Shannon was wedged in between a pile of mosquito nets and her suitcases for the length of our journey. Somehow, even though riots in town stopped traffic for an hour (a story for another day), we managed to get everything accomplished—except lunch and souvenirs for Shannon. Pole.

Logos has been having a rough time recently. Two weeks ago, a rock fell out of a truck and onto the windshield, shattering it. We drove for two days, sans windshield, until we could get it fixed. The sliding door on the left side falls off its track pretty regularly, so one must be very gentle. The sliding door on the right side cannot be opened from the inside, so you have to reach your arm through the window and tug from an incredibly awkward angle in order to free yourself.

Another challenge is the 6.4 kilometer dirt road from the highway to our campus. This time of year, when it rains almost daily, the road is particularly bad. In places, huge holes and trenches make it almost impassable, especially if it’s muddy. The government promises to make repairs, but I understand their reluctance to do so for such a rural route. The only vehicles that ever use this road belong to missionaries or a condom dispensary.

I often find myself gripping the seat in front of me, trying to mask the panic on my face, whenever Logos tilts more than twenty degrees to the side…or slides across the mud like it’s ice…

…or gets stuck in a muddy crevice when I’m on my way to pick up four travel-weary friends from a five week tour of the United States.

Let me just tell you, after hearing the engine stall, if your driver groans and immediately starts rolling up his pants and removing his socks and shoes, it’s never a good thing.

I was particularly nervous knowing that the previous evening, Logos had been stuck for over an hour in this same place. As it got dark and Logos could not be coaxed from the mud, Jackie almost called one of the Masai to come out and sleep in the van to guard it overnight. Before she could get to her phone, Logos was miraculously freed! It’s enough to move anyone to prayer.

So, Kanaeli is removing his shoes, and I’m ditching my flip flops—after the rice paddy incident last week, I’m taking no chances. I hike up the ankle-length skirt of my nicest dress here and gingerly trod through the mud to the front of the car while Kanaeli digs Logos out from behind. A crowd of people gather to help—two women on their way to the market, one of our secondary school students, and Mama Miriam, who just happened to be passing by on a piki-piki at the very moment we needed her. All of us push the front of the car back through the sludge, and Logos makes a second pass over the place of doom with hardly any trouble.

Ten minutes and a bunch of mud later, we were on our way.

And that’s how we roll around here!

A Very Happy Homecoming

We’ve been counting down to December 4 for five weeks. December 4, the day Daddy, Kayci, Eliza and Saleh come home!

The four of them have been in the United States—Eliza and Saleh’s first trip to America. It was a whirlwind tour—five states in five weeks. They met the director of the Museum of Natural History, saw a Broadway Show (Godspell!), experienced trick-or-treating for the first time, went to Disneyland, visited nine schools, hosted a screening of a new documentary featuring our girls, and met with many special friends of JBFC.

Back in Kitongo, we have been anxiously awaiting their return. For the past week, the girls have been sprucing up the campus and making signs to welcome everyone “at” home.

Liku, Neema and Rose even gave me a by-line on the sign. My major contribution was telling them how to mix colors to get “brown.”

Yuge and Salome are standing next to one of the “Welcome at home” signs they hung throughout the house.

“Welcome at Tanzania Dady. How about America? I love you so much Dady. From Veronica.”

“Welcome Dad, Kayci, Elizabeth, and Saleh. Fiel at home. We was miss you all and we love you all. By Anna.”


After flying from New York through Istambul and Nairobi, our favorite jet-setters finally arrived at Mwanza’s airport…

…with sixteen bags! As you can see, we needed a little help getting it all to the car.

I should stop to mention how wonderful homecomings are at JBFC. One of my best memories from the past two months is when eight of our girls went to Rwanda shortly after I arrived in Kitongo. Though they were only gone four days, you would have thought it was a year, given the jubilant reception they received from everyone upon their return. There were hugs, tears, screams of joy and laughter as we greeted the long-awaited and thoroughly-missed girls.

This welcome reception was much the same way. As we pulled around the corner and down the final stretch of dirt road leading to the campus, they pointed out all the changes—a new roof on the secondary school, the blossoming rozella plants, and baby goats that have been born since they left.

And then, thirty-eight girls came running from every direction, yelling and cheering as they ran alongside the van.

As we opened the sliding doors, we were instantly mobbed.

There were hugs for everyone…


...and lots of smiles.


And then, we all lined up to help bring the bags inside…


…whether on our heads…

…or with a team effort.

We are so glad to have our dad/sister/brother/friends back. Karibuni Nyumbani Saleh, Kayci, Elisa and Chris!

Saturday, December 3, 2011

Julia's First African Wedding

If I had any lingering fantasies about EVER being inconspicuous here in Tanzania, today shattered them.

My first wedding in Tanzania!

I should clarify…I attended as a guest, not the bride.

A few weeks ago, I received an invitation to attend a wedding for the son of our head teacher, Boniface. Naturally, I was thrilled. New experience in Africa! So, today was finally the day. After jumping in the JBFC van with three of our mamas, we started down the dirt road, picking up several people along the way. It’s worth mentioning that no one in this van spoke English—except I’m pretty darn sure Mzee Kitula speaks it well and pretends he doesn’t at all. Of course, it is to be expected that everyone is speaking Swahili and not English, but for the purposes of today, remember that I had no one to explain traditions and procedures or translate the ceremony and reception to follow.

We arrived late—it was already the middle of the ceremony when I took my seat on a wooden bench next to the mamas. Next thing I know, Boniface has walked down the aisle and is bringing me to sit up front with his family. Basically, I’m the muzungu in a room of 300 people who walked in late and is now on stage, facing everyone. Totally not awkward. Nor is the fact that we are singing, praying, cheering, etc. and I have essentially no idea what’s being said.

Oh, but then there’s the processional. This is where the bride and groom walk VERY SLOWLY down the aisle, followed by sixteen flower girls dancing in unison. Note to self: sixteen flower girls are WAY better than just one. At any rate, I’m enjoying the dancing and processional and then again, I am pulled into it by Boniface. Yes, I would totally love to dance down the aisle in front of the entire city of Nyanguge…that would not make me feel self-conscious in the least!

And then, people are putting me in the van I came in, this time with the sixteen flower girls, their dance instructor (who was every stereotype you have of stage moms from the States), two miscellaneous boys, and the mamas. Apparently, we were going to watch the official wedding portraits taken.

This photo does not capture the insanity of sixteen children squished in seats designed for seven, but you get the idea...

Oh, just kidding…I was IN the wedding portraits. Yes, here is Julia in ALL her awkwardness, being beckoned to stand with two strangers on their wedding day and smile for their photographer in a series of shots. Amna shida…no problem.

Flash-forward through two hours of sitting on a plastic chair waiting for the reception to start and trying to look like I’m totally having the time of my life—because, as always, people are staring. The bride and groom enter, again with the wonderful dancing flower girls—two are students at our school, which was very fun for me.

And then we get to enjoy about 90 minutes of reception choreography, from speeches, to the cutting of a ribbon through which the bridge and groom enter, to the cutting of the cake. Oh, let’s stop there. Instead of feeding it to one another with their hands, or throwing it at one another, here they put a piece in their mouth and their partner has to take it with a kiss. Pretty scandalous in a culture when men and women never even hold hands!

Also, I have to tell you about the emcee. Picture Lucille Ball trapped inside a tall and portly Tanzanian man, and that’s a fairly accurate description of this emcee, who kept interrupting everyone’s speeches, asking the music to be turned off so he could “work the crowd,” and did his best to make fun of any and everyone. I don’t even speak Swahili, and he was obnoxious. Or maybe that’s because he got the ENTIRE crowd to laugh at me at least three times. Sadly, I have not achieved a level of Swahili where I can retort with sassy comebacks. Someday…

Oh, but finally it was time to eat! And it was delicious…pilau (spiced rice), rice, beans, beef, chicken, fried bananas, and a soda. The meat was tender, and the servers were kind enough not to give me what looked like a giant piece of tongue from the immense pot. I guess it goes without saying that I ate my entire plate without a utensil. And that the videographer (gotta love him) took several looooong clips of me eating with my hands, because I’m sure that’s an image the Kumyola family wants to treasure for years to come.

Did I mention the food was divine? Because it was.

All in all, the wedding was a six hour process, and I only made it to half of it.

Despite all the uncomfortable moments along the way, I’m thrilled I went. There is such a spirit to the celebrations here, and I loved being a part of it. I wish Isack and Pendo all the best as they begin their new life together. Congratulations to you both!

Friday, December 2, 2011

Internet, Macaroni, and Bats

JBFC got internet on campus just a few months before I moved here. Internet in the bush...it's pretty remarkable, when you think about it. I mean, my house doesn't have real windows or a fridge or running water in the kitchen, but I can Skype with you from my couch!

At any rate, having internet makes all kinds of things easier--communicating with friends and family, looking up various symptoms on webMD.com, finding the lyrics to songs the girls want to learn, etc.

I'm also excited that generator hours here coincide with morning work hours in the States. I can keep up one of my favorite past times, g-chatting with some of my favorite girls. Here's an excerpt from one such chat, with the ever-fabulous Chelsea Derry. First time I wrote her married name like that. It looks nice, Chels.

We were in the middle of a highly intellectual discussion on whether the mac and cheese boxes Shannon brought me from the States was Kraft or Velveta brand. (Shannon, if you're reading this, the mac and cheese has been HIGHLY enjoyed.)

Chelsea: ah
understand
ooh i know how to tell
shells or elbow pasta?
7:44 PM i konw way too much about mac n cheese
7:45 PM me: girl, you are amazing
AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
BAT IN THE HOUSE
BAT IN THE HOUSE
ok, sorry...
just don't want rabies, you know
Chelsea: you had a bat in the house
me: ummm, elbow pasta
Chelsea: and you spent the time to type it out?
me: which kind??
Chelsea: girl you're crazy
me: "have"
Chelsea: kraft mac 'n' cheese
oh no
me: present tense
7:46 PM it's in the corner
whatevs

At this point, I briefly left our ghcat session to find a bowl and cutting board to extricate the little monster from our humble abode. And then, back to gchat!

Thursday, December 1, 2011

Aunt Julia

For the past two weeks, I’ve been babysitting Chris’ sons while he’s out of town on a fundraising trip in America. While Stephanie was here, we took turns staying in the guest room and watching them in the evenings. Now that she’s gone, Stephanie is calling me a “single mom” to Danny (8), Paul (10), and Jonas (14).

Personally, I kind of like “Aunt Julia.” Aunts are cool. They are fun. They let you stay up late and take you to movies and don’t follow any of the rules.

Well, while I try to be cool and fun, I definitely don’t let them stay up late. In an act of incredible selflessness on my part, I give up an hour on my laptop during “generator hours” to let them watch movies before bed. Luckily, there is a big selection of kid-friendly movies at their house. If we were choosing from my collection, it would be West Side Story or The Way We Were. Somehow, I don’t think Robert Redford would have the same appeal for them. We might still do WSS…I am happy to indoctrinate a love of musical theatre in any country!

The boys and I have had a lot of fun these past two weeks. We’ve instituted “cinnamon roll Saturdays” and celebrated Thanksgiving together. They have charmed my entire family through Skype sessions--in which Jonas proudly declared to my mom that he was "sure Julia will be killing a goat any day now." (I think this was in reference to me not fainting at the sight of our Thanksgiving chicken being killed. Jonas is my biggest cheerleader as I become "a real Tanzanian woman!")

All three boys have all completed a run to Lugeye, our neighboring town.

Danny has learned to crack his back.

Paul dedicates all his soccer goals to me…five tonight!

Jonas is my favorite Kiswahili teacher, and I repay the favor by giving him advanced English vocabulary and slang terms.

This morning, we made pancakes, and the boys took turns at the coveted position at the stove as “pancake flipper.” Was I a hovering nervous wreck as their little fingers were close to the open flame of the slightly-unpredictable gas stove? Of course I was. But they were champs, and everyone emerged from the experience with all their appendages burn-free.

We ate our five small pancakes “sampler style,” because that’s how Aunt Julia likes them. Everyone had their choice of maple syrup or fruit jam that I heated over the stove. The boys were very impressed that I came up with this fancy culinary technique.

As this afternoon’s storm rolled in, so did the boys into the house. “Julia, will you teach us French?” Ummm, not what I was expecting, but sure!

They ran to get out their journals, and I wrote out some phrases with the Kiswahili translations—my first time teaching with Kiswahili as the base language. They took copious notes on anything I wrote down.

I don’t know many kids who are casually picking up their fourth language in their free time on a rainy Thursday during their Christmas break…but even if I did, I’m sure these three boys would still be my favorites.

Paul, Jonas, and Danny (L to R)