Wednesday, November 30, 2011

A Familiar Tune

I heard a familiar tune in the car yesterday. Jonas didn’t believe me that there are English lyrics, but I finally convinced him by singing them over the Swahili version.

Today, we tracked down the one hymnal on campus so I could copy out the words and memorize them. Want to try singing along? Swahili is very phonetic, so you should give it a try. The only trick is pronouncing every vowel separately. For example, the two AA’s at the end of “nashangaa” each represent their own syllable.

The next song I want to learn is the one about Jesus being a “muzungu.” I’ll work out a translation for you one of these days!


Bwana Mungu, Nashangaa – How Great Thou Art


Verse One

Bwana Mungu, nashangaa kabisa

Nikifikiri jinsi vilivyo

Nyota, ngurumo, vitu vyote pia

Viumbwavyo kwa uwezo wako.


Chorus

Roho yangu na ikuimbie

Jinsi Wewe ulivyo Mkuu

Roho yangu na ikuimbie

Jinsi Wewe ulivyo Mkuu


Verse Two

Nikitembea pote duniani,

Ndege huimba, nawasikia,

Milima hupendeza macho sana

Upepo nao nafurahia


Verse Three

Nikikumbuka vile Wewe Mungu

Ulivyom-peleka Mwanao

Afe azichukue dhambi zetu

Kuyatambua ni vigumu mno.


Verse Four

Yesu Mwokozi utakaporudi

Kunichukua kwenda mbinguni

Nitaimba sifa zako milele

Wote wajue jinsi ulivyo.

Sunday, November 27, 2011

Caution: Rice Paddys Ahead

In an effort to check an item off the bucket list, I mentioned to Jonas that I’d like to see “the fish pond” this morning. This mysterious fish pond is discussed often, and I was anxious to move it from mythical status to the “places I’ve been” column. It seemed simple enough. I even thought I might do laundry after.

Our plans to go immediately following church (at noon) turned into inviting the girls to go after chores…then lunch…then feeding the dogs…then peeling potatoes for pilau dinner…until it was 4:30 and time to go if we were going to make it back by sunset.

So, a small group of 23 of us set off for what I thought would be a little stroll.

Caution: Rice Paddys Ahead

It’s rainy season, so the fields are full of mini-lakes, trapped by tilled dirt on four sides. This stretches for kilometers around us. It’s actually quite beautiful, with mountains in the background and a big blue sky overhead.

What this means for us is that “a little stroll” just became a bit more serious.

Our group separates as the older girls move ahead, the younger ones competing to hold my hands, two at a time. Before I realize it, I’m the last one, with Yuge and Pendo on either side. I look ahead and see all the girls in a row, brightly colored skirts and pigtails in every direction, navigating the rice paddys.

There are patches where the ground is mostly mud with only a few dry places to step. As we hop from dry dirt clod to dry dirt clod, I make a fatal error assuming these islands of refuge will hold up under my weight the same as they do for the younger girls. As I jete to my next island, it gives way, and I am instantly sprawled out inside the rice paddy. Judging from the smell, it’s not just mud that I’m marinating in.

For those of you who have seen “Anne of Green Gables,” (and if you haven’t, stop reading this, rent it, watch it, and then come back…) it’s like the scene where Anne and Diana chase the cow…except there was no hunky Canadian named Gilbert at the end of the rice paddy. Instead, a chorus of “pole!!” (sorry) from the girls only adds to my embarrassment.

I’m covered in mud and…I don’t want to think about what else!

Casualties: my dress, right flip flop (a travesty—I wear these every day), and my pride.

Five minutes later, we make it to the fish pond, and the girls decide to wade across it…some more successfully than others. Their faces are jubilant at the novelty of it all…then register genuine terror when a fish jumps out of the water. They make their way through the “pond” with skirts lifted high…just not high enough to stay dry. Of course, they are all sopping wet when they emerge on the other side.

And so, we make our way back home. Pilau, our special Sunday meal, awaits us when we return.

Yonga gives me a series of gifts as we walk back…a Disney princess band-aid previously covering a cut on her ear, her shoes, and now her shirt—CLEARLY superfluous but for no apparent reason. As she marches down the dirt road with a defiant gait, I discover our almost-baby (only Nellie is her junior) has learned to roll her eyes. What will be terribly unappealing in a few years is simultaneously hilarious and adorable today.

Thursday, November 24, 2011

Shukurani - Thanksgiving with a Tanzanian Twist

Thanksgiving meals in the past have taken place in my grandparents’ homes, once at a restaurant for a delicious buffet, three times in the Sunset for UGA Thanksgiving fests (hollah!) and in my parents’ home this September, when we celebrated early before I left for Tanzania.

As the only American in Kitongo (as far as I can tell) for the two weeks surrounding Thanksgiving, I knew it was solely my responsibility to share this wonderful holiday with my Tanzanian family. (Thank you to Stephanie for emphasizing the utter seriousness of this task and encouraging me to celebrate in a new way!)

Thanksgiving preparations began on Tuesday, when I went shopping at the open market for a dizzying array of produce and U-Turn Grocery Store for other essentials. We displayed all the produce in wicker baskets until Thanksgiving morning, and then it was time to get to work!

Mama Mary gave me my first cooking lesson in Kiswahili and showed me how to make kisamvu. She was rather tickled to have me as her student, and she is an excellent instructor, even though I only understood about 10% of what she was saying. Kisamvu is a leafy green you mash with a mortar and pestle, then cook together with oil, tomato, onion, milk, and…peanut butter! Yes, please!

Jonas was an excellent sous-chef: his responsibilities included cleaning and peeling four kilos of potatoes, sweet and “Irish,” as well as frying the chicken and sweet potatoes.

Danny was our fetcher-of-oil and all-around cheerleader, while Paul focused his efforts on setting the table, laboriously folding napkins in a special design.

Ten apples for our pie were actually more expensive than a live chicken…go figure. (I think apples are brought in from Kenya, where there is a greater variety of produce.) We ordered a chicken from one of the men who works at JBFC, and he brought it to us on Thursday afternoon. As Jackie killed it in front of the house, refrains of “The Circle of Life” were echoing in my head.

I learned a lot about chicken anatomy on Thursday after dissecting it, pulling out its intestines, discovering several eggs of various sizes to be laid, and peeling its feet. I'll spare you the photos, but here's one of Danny and Paul munching on some chicken feet for a snack:

The boys could tell it was an important day, so in a particularly touching gesture, they got dressed up in their finest for our special meal:

I invited eight of my closest friends/adoptive family here to share Thanksgiving with me:

Our Menu:

Salad with Vinaigrette – Cucumber, Tomato, Shredded Carrot (all the good stuff, no lettuce)

Kisamvu – A Tanzanian dish to replace the green beans, which have always been my least favorite anyway

Cranberry Sauce – A miraculous find at U-Turn Grocery Store in town!

Mashed Potatoes – of course

Sweet Potatoes – Fried, because that’s delicious and I couldn’t find a pomegranate to make it like Mimi

Chicken – We thank Ms. Kuku for giving her life for our feast

Stuffing – the best part of the meal, no matter what country you’re in

Apple Pie – even though pumpkin is easier to find here, I like apple. So that’s what we ate.

Why yes, that is a Tanzanian flag cut into the pie!

Dad, I’m sorry—I forgot about the olives!! If only Safeway were down the street and open until noon on Thursday to save us from these memory lapses. Alas, I wasn’t sure I could justify driving three hours round-trip for this critical item.

We shared a lovely meal together, and as I looked around the table, I was incredibly thankful for these people who have made my first two months in Tanzania full of happy memories. Two were present for the infamous stolen-bag episode, one is been an incredible teacher and colleague, two are particularly cheerful and sing beautifully, and one is a toddler who has gone from greeting me with terror (I’m her first muzungu friend) to running into my arms with a smile in a matter of four weeks.

All possess generous spirits, welcoming nature, and the wonderful quality of laughing often.

It was unanimously decided by the boys that apple pie is the best Thanksgiving dish, followed closely by stuffing. I couldn’t agree more.

After our guests left, and the boys and I were sitting on the couches waiting to Skype with my parents, Jonas asked the boys, “what are you thankful for?” The magic of this touching moment was sharply interrupted by Danny’s somewhat inappropriately-timed pronouncement, “I have to poop.” Ohhhh, boys!

I’m grateful for traditions, for loving family and friends throughout the years, and for Thanksgiving with new flavors.

And I'm also grateful my parents taped the Macy's Day Parade for me!

Wednesday, November 23, 2011

Julia’s Tanzania Bucket List (A Work in Progress…)

  1. Learn Swahili...like, for real.
  2. Eavesdrop on a conversation in Swahili when people don’t know I speak it, then reply with an awesome comeback
  3. Memorize all the regions of Tanzania and generally become not an idiot about the country’s geography
  4. Read up on Tanzanian history
  5. Proudly sing all the words to the Tanzanian National Anthem at morning assembly
  6. Take a foot picture on the “heart rock” (check!)
  7. Eat at Hotel Tilapia (check!)
  8. Learn to dance, Africa-style
  9. Learn how to plait the girls’ hair
  10. Let the girls plait my hair
  11. Experience Christmas in Tanzania
  12. Hike Kilimanjaro
  13. Learn to cook several Tanzanian dishes: pilau, kisamvu, mandazi, chapatti, beans, ---
  14. Know the name of every student at Joseph and Mary Primary Academy
  15. Walk to the fish pond
  16. Turn right at the main road (check!)
  17. Swim in Lake Victoria (check!)
  18. Walk to Kitongo and buy something without a Swahili-speaking chaperone (check!)
  19. Buy my own produce in Mwanza’s huge market while bargaining in Swahili (check!)
  20. Take a piki-piki to a dala-dala to another dala-dala to Mwanza
  21. Wander the streets of Mwanza by myself without the anxiety of having a driver wait for me
  22. Marvel at the Serengeti’s magnificence (check!)
  23. Eat in a random café with plastic chairs (check!)
  24. Soak up the sun on the beaches of Zanzibar
  25. Do one special thing for/with each of our girls
  26. Paint my bedroom sky blue
  27. Coordinate a half marathon and train the girls for it
  28. Teach the girls sign language to accompany the lyrics to various songs
  29. Perform a song, with dance choreography, on Sunday night for the girls (check!)
  30. Be part of a flash mob with the girls—future guests, beware!
  31. Beat Liku on a run (well, I can dream, anyway…)
  32. Be invited to someone’s home for dinner and actually go (check!)
  33. Same as 32, but with a local family
  34. Introduce Thanksgiving to my Tanzanian family
  35. Master those terrible “Lucky” matches so that lighting the gas stove and oven is not an overwhelming object lesson in failure, daily (check!)
  36. Teach the girls origami
  37. Open a nail salon for the day (check!)

Periodic updates to follow...stay tuned!


Monday, November 21, 2011

Safari!

Quick Kiswahili lesson…“safari” actually means any long journey or trip. If I travel to visit family in another city, it’s a safari. If I check out the beaches in Zanzibar or go hunting (why are you laughing?) or to see what Kenya's really all about, it’s a safari.

But last weekend, we went on SAFARI.

It was a completely serendipitous trip, which made it all the more fun and exciting. Plus, if a handsome Tanzanian offers to take you to the Serengeti, there’s only one appropriate response. As such, Stephanie and I said, “we can be ready in 20 minutes!

A 90 minute drive east of JBFC's campus will lead you directly to the Ndabaka Entrance of the Serengeti National Park...


As we entered the park, I tried to keep my expectations low. I prayed I could see just one giraffe...what an amazing sight that would be!


Check and check. All the following pictures were taken by Stephanie, without a crazy zoom lens. This is important...we really were THAT CLOSE!

In addition to giraffes, we saw ostrich, wildebeests, warthogs, hyenas, cool birds, a river FULL of hippos, monkeys, baboons...and a few other incredible creatures. You know, like a family of magnificent elephants.


We went on a hunt for a lion! A driver from another car had sighted one out in the park, and he gave us directions. Sadly, that search proved unsuccessful.

Instead, we took a break from driving to walk across this oh-so-safe-looking bridge:


Major had a serious lapse in judgment and allowed me to drive his car...


...across a waterfall that looked like this...


...and it was awesome!

As we were on our way out of the park, tunes blasting through our open car windows, we came upon...that's right, LIONS! Plural. Chilling in the grass, just ten feet from the main road. We stopped to marvel at them, with no zoo bars separating us. And then, National Geographic Moment #576 happened...ummm...we witnessed the lion couple share an intimate moment. Right there. There is photographic documentation...and a video taken on an iPad...neither of which I am responsible for. Here's a kid-friendly photo of our friend, Simba:


Just another Saturday afternoon here in Tanzania...a beautiful sunny day, open road, gorgeous landscape, and an adventure through one of the world's most sought-after destinations.

Julia's To-Do List:
Visit the Serengeti...Check!


Sunday, November 20, 2011

Safari Njema, Stephanie!


Tonight, Stephanie flies home to America.

The past seven weeks, we have had the time of our lives and cemented a friendship that has blessed me in countless ways.

We've gone from the early days of no toilet paper or soap (a shopping trip to Mwanza remedied this situation) while counting the minutes until our next meal of beans and rice to feeling as though we can successfully navigate life here in Tanzania.

We've logged over 100 km in runs, learned to bake our own bread, and bargained for fresh produce in the market...in Kiswahili.

Stephanie has exposed the students of Joseph and Mary Primary Academy to beauty and the creative process through her art classes. Our preschoolers know all their shapes and colors, our lower grades have done watercolor, and our upper grade students are experimenting with lines and perspective. Stephanie has taught them how to see the world in a new way...patterns, colors, textures and shapes abound!

Her selfless nature, unfailingly positive attitude, and enthusiasm for every new experience has made my first weeks in Tanzania full of joy.

Today, we celebrated her time here with peanut butter cookies in the dining hall with the girls. After hugs all around--and an outpouring of beautiful handmade cards in rainbow colors--we "danced it out" to Shakira's "Waka Waka." This time for Africa...

Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Tough Choices

We share a bathroom with everyone staying in the guesthouse, which has previously included a family with two young children and a group of six 4th graders who rise at 5 am to do “chores” for two hours. Loudly. Currently, my housemates (in addition to Stephanie) are one of our drivers and a man who works on our farm.

Shower 1:

Does not drain, even overnight.

Hot and cold water

Has a door

Light bulb works

Nozzle broke yesterday. Water still goes through hose properly.

Lots of bugs. Lots.


Shower 2:

Drains in twelve hours, but only if water runs fewer than four minutes

Hot and cold water

No door

No light

Nozzle completely broken; hose leaks 30-40% of water in several directions.

Average to low number of bugs


Shower 3:

Drains

Hot water only – scalding temperature

Has a door

Light bulb works

Nozzle only leaks 10% of water out the side

Minimal bugs


You choose.